Hello Baycreek followers, friends and family.
Mike here, the life partner of Jeanette Marie. In this blog we will give a brief yet informative step by step tutorial on our rustic reclaimed wood and plumbing supply coffee table.
First off you need to acquire the supplies. Heres the full list
- reclaimed wood or new wood painted the part-enough to cover your base roughly 29″x52″
- plumbing supply pipe black or galvanized pre threaded in several lengths and sizes.
- 1) 48inch 1/2inch diameter pipe
- (4) 6inch 1inch diameter pipe
- (4) 10inch 1inch diameter pipe
- (4) 1inch tee fittings
- (8) 1inch floor flanges
- (4) 1inch close nipples
- 4) 1inch to 1/2inch reducers
- (2) 1/2inch tee fittings
- (4) 8inch 1/2inch diameter pipe
- (1) large container of Elmer’s wood glue
- (1) package of 6inch deck screws
- (8) 1/2inch by 12inch lag bolts
- (16) 1inch long lag bolts for flange.
- (1) 3/8th by 12inch wood drill bit
- (1) 6inch drill bit for pre drilling your deck screws
Sounds like a lot I know but it’s worth it. The total cost should be around $100 not including your wood. Quick fyi you could use 2x4s on end(standing up) or 4x4s. We used reclaimed hardwood from steel haulers already beat and weathered to perfection. Our wood measured 3×3.
Start off by putting your plumbing base together, I actually did this in the store. And yes everyone was looking at me like I was crazy.. I started with the 48inch pipe and worked my way out to each leg in this pattern:
(a) connect your 1/2inch tee fittings to your 48inch pipe on each end.
(b) next connect your 8inch 1/2 inch pipes to each side of your tee fittings.
(c) now place your reducers on your exposed ends this should all be tight and lay flat on the ground.
(d) place your close 1inch nipple into the reducers. don’t use pliers or a pipe wrench on the exposed threads you can tighten the connecting parts to your liking.
(e) connect your 1inch tee fittings to your close nipples tighten till the tee openings face up and down.
(f )connect your 6inch pipes to the bottom of your tee fittings and cap them off with the floor flanges.
(g) connect your 10inch pipe to your top tee fittings and cap them off with your remaining floor flanges. your base is now ready for your custom table top. make sure to tighten all fittings for stability and safety.
After choosing your lumber you can start by cutting your boards down to your desired lengths. We wanted a slight over hang with capped ends on our table top. We needed 53 inches to cover our base. We had to lay our lumber out to find the ideal pieces in a certain order for color contrast. Keep in mind wood tends to cup, bow and crown so the lay out is important the flatter they lay together the better. This will minimize labor later.
For this next step you will need a drill. Two drills would be ideal. One for drilling and one for screwing. Both drill bits (see list above) for your deck screws and lag bolts. You need clamps and wood glue. Start by placing boards in sets of two and glueing them to one and other. You don’t need a ton of glue, one pass at the center is enough. Screw them together about two inches from the ends. Pre drilling the screw hole first makes it easier and ensures your wood doesn’t split. Do every set of screws the same using uniform screw placement. This is critical because your screws will show on the edges of the table. You will want a pattern. We used 3×3 lumber so the 6in screw penetrated both boards but didn’t pop out on the back sides.
Now lay your table top sets in order. We had five sets of two. Take two of the middle sets and clamp them together. Mark two spots 7 inches from the ends. Drill counter sinking holes about 1 inch deep. Next drill two pilot holes inside of your counter sink holes with a 5/16ths by 12in drill bit. Adding your lag bolts is tough but your table will be bullet proof!!! I used a nematic impact and a ratchet to do this part. Continue this step until all your sets are attached making sure to off set lag bolt placement on every set as the table top is attached. On your outer set place your lag bolts uniform on both sides. They will show.
Last we flipped the table top over and placed the plumbing base on top to attach them. We used small lag screws half the thickness of your table top for stability.
To finish off our table it received a really vigorous sanding job, some stain and poly to seal it. Quick tip~ we wet sanded the top to fill in some of the gaps with saw dust.
This was a tough project because we wanted a butcher block look for the top of our coffee table. If using 2×6 lumber you could use metal brackets to attach your boards together. We wanted the bulky industrial look so the extra work was worth it. because this table weighs over 100 lbs we lag bolted the entire top.
Thanks for checking it out. Work safe, lock the windows and wear protection!